Plate Reverb Build: Needed Materials

Building this plate reverb will not be without some costs. I have come up with everything that will be needed to complete this project.

1x Cold Rolled Steel Plate – ($26)
2x 1-1/2 in. x 60 in. Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle ($28)
2x 1-1/2 in. x 14-Gauge x 36 in. Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle ($52)
1x 12-pack 20mm Piezoelectric Elements/Contact Pickups with 2″ Leads ($17)
1x Vidsonix Ghost Transducer ($20)
1x GLS Audio 1/4″ Jacks Female TS Mono Panel Mount Jack – 4 PACK ($12)
8x 880 lb. x 1/4 in. Zinc-Plated Quick Link ($18)
8x 1/4 in. x 2 in. Zinc-Plated Steel Eye Bolts with Nut ($5)
1x TEKTON 6555 Rivet Gun with 40-pc. Rivets ($14)
1x Neiko Hand Held Power Punch, Sheet Metal Hole Punch Kit($31)
16x Stanley-National Hardware 1-in Metallic Corner Brace ($25)

Overall, the entire cost of this project will be $248 if I don’t include the wooden frame and damping plate, which are both optional at this point. This doesn’t include the extra nuts, bolts and screws that I will need to keep everything together. It also leaves me with some extra supplies for my second attempt at it, and I won’t have to buy the tools again.

Next up is buying all of these materials, as well as researching the acoustics of metals and damping plates, which will come later this weekend.

Plate Reverb Build: The Blueprint

Over the few days, I have been putting together a blueprint of what I eventually want my plate reverb to look like. Here are the first sketches:

figure1-3
My plate reverb’s steel sheet will be 2’x4′ and will have metal triangles installed on each of the corners for reinforcement. (Figure 1). The corners will be 2.5 inches tall and wide with three small holes for the rivets (Figure 2), which will combine the two sheets of steel. There will also be two 1/4″ holes to suspend the plate from the frame. The frame and plate will be joined by either Eye or Spade Bolts connected to the frame. There will be two 1/4″ quick links on each corner too (Figure 3).

 

PLateFront
The frame will be constructed with Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle (Blue) which will be 2″ longer than the sheet metal on each side to come to a length of 28″x52″ (Figure 4). There will also be Four sections of the slotted angle which will be for support and running cables up them (Green). Two of these will be 23″ from each end with a 3″ gap between them to mount the Transducer. There will be two more sections 11.5″ from each end to mount the contact mics and run the cables from. There will also be two 6″ sections on the bottom to use as feet.

 

plateback
On the backside of the unit will be 1″x1″ metal corner braces to hold the reverb in place. (Red) There will be two of these located in each corner. I will also drill three 1/8″ holes to adhere the transducer to the plate (Orange).

Plate Reverb Build: Researching the electronics, Part 1

Aside from actually building the plate, the most crucial part of of this project is the electronics involved.  Today I will talk about the contact mics that I will use for this plate reverb.

Now, the contact mics that I will use for this are Piezo pickups from amazon. These are great for my purpose in creating a working plate reverb because they are inexpensive and effective at the same time. However, there is one problem with these. They are unbalanced and do not match well with the inputs from most audio components.  This is because the impedances don’t match. This article states that using a typical line input is 50 kilohm. A contact mic like the one I am using needs a much higher impedance, around 1 megaohm.

When the piezo pickup is wired through a typical line input, it creates a high-pass filter of 200 Hz (Green Line), which eliminates the bass. If you wire it into a typical mic input, the impedance is around 7 kilohm and this mismatch causes an even greater high-pass at 1000 Hz (Red Line), which is shown in the graph below:
Here is the graph

This would be a problem, but I usually high-pass my reverbs to either 350 or 600 Hz anyways. Those low to mid low frequencies muddy up the sound of a reverb and I end up cutting them anyways. I don’t really see this to be a big problem for me right now with this project. I would love to have that information available, and I found some solutions that I can try in the future.

One of those solutions is to create a FET amplifier which matches the electrical issue involved with piezo mics. There is also a higher quality, lower noise version. These seem easy enough to create, though I don’t know much about them because my knowledge in creating electrical devices is almost null. I will have to do a little research in the future to have the ability to create these for my contact mics.

Another solution is to build a piezo pre-amp created by Alex Rice. He created a phantom powered preamp which the end result is a balanced output for a piezo mic. Zach Poff recreated all of these designs once Alex’s project went off the web. This seems to be a much more doable project for me because all the schematics are there and ready to be put onto a PCB board for production, as seen below.
PCB Design

There is also a great picture showing how to create this same pre-amp on regular perfboard! This is amazing for me because I can just buy this and create a working version very easily, with little electronics knowledge needed.
Perfboard

Here is the end result if you follow everything. I think it is a doable improvement after this version of my plate reverb, or if the result of just wiring the mic into a 1/4″ line input doesn’t work out like I want it to, I can try and put it together at the end of my build.
End Result
One last solution I found was to take two piezo mics and sandwich them together. Then you would take the “hot” wire from each of them and run them to an XLR’s hot and cold pins. Then you would combine the ground cables from both and run them into the ground of the XLR. This is an interesting way to create a balanced output from the piezo’s but I have one major issue with it. Would it be an omni directional polar pattern because both of the mics are wired into the XLR? Or would it somehow be directional, here is a picture of his end result:
Sandwichpiezo
He states that making them directional is a further study and I might contact him to see he if has progressed in it at all. The only way would be to build one and test it, which could possibly be done with this reverb since the piezo mics are fairly cheap. The output on the website sounded pretty well, and this would be the easiest solution to the problem of balancing a piezo mic.

I did find at the end of my research a very easy way to make a contact mic useable with an XLR output, which I will end up trying also in my plate reverb!

 

Plate Reverb Build: Critiquing another D.I.Y Project, Part 1

As you know, I am starting on building my own Plate Reverb. As part of my research, I am going to go find other plate reverb projects and critique them, as well as tell you what I am going to use from those projects.

We will start off with the project from Ionosonde Recordings. Overall, I really enjoyed reading about his process in making an affordable plate reverb.  It is also the kind of build that I am looking to do with this project. It isn’t as high quality as some of the other examples I found, but my goal for this project is a workable reverb from which I can build on to make even better.

One of the things that I liked the most from this project is the fact that it did not use any welding. I am not going to weld on my plate because I don’t possess those skills right now and I don’t have enough time to learn a skill like that. This DIY does a great job of making a frame out of something inexpensive that you can find at any hardware store. I also liked how he went into detail on how to get just the voice coil from a speaker. This isn’t something that I am going to use because I found a transducer on its own, but could be valuable in the future.

A couple of the things that I didn’t like were that the transducer isn’t connected to the plate. It is only touching it. This isn’t a good thing because the transducer should vibrate with the plate, and if you get the transducer loud enough, it could separate from the plate itself, causing problems. If it is connected to the plate, you can drive the source even harder. I also didn’t like that he didn’t go into detail on how the pickups and speaker were connected, as well as what pre-amps he was using. From the first picture it seems that everything is wired into 1/4″ jacks, which could lead to problems because piezo’s are unbalanced mics. This is something that I will need to research more.

After reading this, I am glad that I was able to find some things that I will use in my own plate, as well as some things that I will stray away from. I feel that this reverb is a great starting point into this DIY field for anybody and I hope I can do the same for mine. Here are my pros/cons on the project for those who didn’t want to read through my explanation.

Pros:

  • Able to build frame and corner support without welding
  • Great detail on building the frame and connecting it
  • In depth about how to free a voice coil to a speaker

Cons:

  • Looks to be 1/4″ Inputs and Outputs
  • No outside frame
  • Transducer is not connected to plate, only touching it
  • Did not go into the electronics of how everything is connected
  • No amp or pre-amp information
  • Only one example

Building a Plate Reverb

Hello,

I am going to start on a new project before I graduate from college for Audio Production. I will be building a physical plate reverb. I am doing this because I feel that analog gear is coming back into play more and more again. I feel the biggest disconnect between the digital and analog difference is in a reverb. The EMT 140 is one of the most sought after pieces of gear today.

Here are a couple pictures of them:

This is what I attempt to accomplish within the next 8 weeks.