Plate Reverb Build: The Result!

Earlier this week I completely finished my plate reverb. The final things that I needed to do after hanging my plate was hooking up all the electronics and testing to make sure they worked. I started off by drilling some holes in the middle of the plate to bolt my transducer directly to the plate. Here are a couple pictures of that process. I ended up using rubber washers for the backside so I could isolate the metal on metal contact as much as possible.

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After hooking that up, I had to wire my transducers to some speaker wire. I ended up soldering them together to get a firm connection.

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After hooking these up, I connected my speaker wire to the 1/4″ mono input jacks, so I could get a signal from the piezo mics. I made sure that I was connecting the right wire to the positive terminal of the 1/4″ jack.

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After completing all of these tasks, I was done with wiring all my electronics and tested everything to make sure that it worked. To power my transducer, I tried using the headphone amp from my Apogee Quartet to see if it would work. I did get a signal, though it wasn’t as powerful as I wanted it. I made the mistake of not double checking the power requirements of my transducer, and when I hooked up a bigger amp that I thought would work, it ended up blowing the whole thing.

That means that I did not get all the tests and samples that I wanted to get and had to order another transducer that will hopefully get here next week. I did however get one test done and below it shows a dry vocal, one with my plate reverb on it and one with the reverb that I had on in my mix.

That concludes everything that I wanted to get done with this project! I am pretty happy with how everything turned out and I know what I need to do to make a better version in the future. I will have a full analysis of this plate reverb in a couple of weeks when I get my transducer and I find a better amp to power it.

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Plate Reverb Build: Frame Construction

This week, I constructed the entire frame together for my plate reverb. From my needed materials post, you can see that I needed two pieces of 1 1/2″ x 60″ Zinc Plated Slotted Angle and six pieces of 1 1/2″ x 36″ Zinc Plated Slotted Angle to build the entire frame. After picking these up, they needed to be cut to the size that I designed in my blueprint.

However, after inspection of all my parts, I underestimated the length that my eye hooks and links would take up, so I extended my frame by one inch on all sides.

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After cutting them to size, I needed to file down the edges that were just cut.

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After getting these filed down the best that they could, I started by bolting down the corners through the slots that matched up to create my outside frame.

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After getting this complete, I began to make the frame more rigid by adding four joints on the “outside” of the frame (the plate will go on the opposite end).

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Here is the frame with the joint support:

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After putting everything together, we brought out a square to make sure that all the corners were exactly square. After doing this, we tightened everything down and added support for the corners to make them more stable.

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Here is the completed frame:

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If the corner supports don’t work as well, I can always take them off and go back to the metal triangles to add rigidness to this frame. Next up, I will be installing the plate to this frame, which you should see done this coming week.